Fujifilm X-H1

Fujifilm have just announced their new Fujifilm X-H1 camera with inbuilt 5-axis in-body image stabilisation. This is something that a lot of X series photographers have wanted for a while.

The new Fujifilm X-H1 will be Fujifilm's highest performing camera in the X Series range, with a newly designed camera body that incorporates a range of extremely useful features that support shooting in various scenarios that is demanded by professional photographers and videographers.

One of the key features of the Fujifilm X-H1 will be it's in-body image stabilisation technology. This is a 5-axis stabilisation system known as IBIS (In Body Image Stabilisation).

The in body image stabilisation has a maximum of 5.5 stops (*1) as well as flicker reduction mode which for example, enhance indoor sports photography.

The Fujifilm X-H1 will make use of Fujinon XF lens range with the exception of some XF lenses. Depending on which XF lens is used, stabilisation will be upwards of 5 stops.

Additionally, the Fujifilm X-H1 will also be compatible with a range of other interchangeable lenses which are due to be released later in 2018. These include the Fujinon MKX 18-55mm T2.9 and MKX 50-135mm T2.9 professional cinema lenses which will incorporate the X-Mount, the XF200mmF2 R LM OIS WR, a wide aperture single-focus telephoto lens, and XF8-16mmF 2.8 R WR, designed to meet the needs of scenery or landscape photographers, both of which are scheduled for release by the end of 2018. The new camera and lens combinations will provide outstanding image production and will be ideal for fast action sports photography.

Features

1. 5.5 stops (*1) in-body image stabilization (IBIS), a new feature expanding the high-quality photographic range of the X Series.

Offering the first in-body image stabilisation (IBIS) system to feature in an X Series camera, the X-H1 harnesses three axial accelerometers, three axial Gyro sensors, and a specially developed dual-processor.  Combined, this achieves the high speed of approximately 10,000 calculations per second.  When unified with compensating mechanisms, the result is uncompromising image quality and precision with performance as described below.

(1) 5-axis image stabilisation is possible with all XF and XC lenses.

(2) Up to a maximum of 5.5 stops image stabilisation, is possible when the camera is used with all XF lenses that do not include optical image stabilisation technology.

The following technical breakthroughs have been developed to support this high precision performance:

-       A laser measurement device is used during the process of manufacturing the image stabilization unit, controlling component flatness and position with twice the precision of standard components.

-       The assembly process also includes inspection and adjustment of each individual camera to ensure that even when image stabilization is used, the parallel position of the sensor is achieved with micro-order accuracy equivalent to previous models.

-       In addition, a new spring mechanism has been included to reduce micro-vibrations caused by operation of the mechanical shutter.

-       The photographer may also choose to use the electronic front curtain shutter or the electronic shutter, virtually eliminating the effect of vibrations to maximise the benefits of image stabilisation.

 

The X-H1 uses the APS-C size X-Trans™ CMOS III (*3) sensor (24.30 million pixels, without low-pass filter) and the high-speed image processing engine X-Processor Pro. This proprietary FUJIFILM technology was first seen in the X-Pro2 and then X-T2 cameras, receiving many awards globally. When used in combination with the extremely high-quality FUJINON lens, as well as the unique color reproduction technology developed by FUJIFILM more than 8 decades ago, the X-H1 produces outstanding, unrivaled quality images recording the finest details of the subject including texture, three-dimensional structure and even the atmosphere and vibe of a particular scene.

 

*3 X-Trans is a trademark or registered trademark of FUJIFILM. The X-Trans CMOS III sensor uses a unique non-periodic filter array to reduce the appearance of moire patterns and false colors even without an optical low-pass filter.images and videos to paired smartphones and tablet devices, using the free smart-device app “FUJIFILM Camera Remote”.

 

2. Highly robust, durable body and easy operability results in comfortable shooting across a wide range of environments

In addition to the camera's dust-resistant, water-resistant properties, and the ability to operate in temperatures as low as -10°C, the camera also uses a 25% thicker magnesium alloy compared to the X-T2. FUJIFILM has also modified the structure for attaching the mount, resulting in a more compact size and lighter weight body that maintains high precision and strong resistance to impact shock torsion and other sources of deformation. Increased particle size on the camera's external surface provides a high-quality scratch-resistant coating with a surface hardness equivalent to 8H.

 

The viewfinder is a high-magnification, high-precision electronic viewfinder. The magnification ratio of 0.75 times and the 3.69 million resolution leads the class for mirrorless cameras. The viewfinder display is extraordinarily smooth, with a display time lag of just 0.005 seconds and a frame rate of 100 frames per second, allowing the photographer to instantly confirm the movement of the subject and position of the focus with great precision.

 

The rear LCD monitor is a 3-direction tilt, 3-inch, 1.04 million dot electrostatic touch-panel LCD which can be intuitively set to the desired angle. In addition, the 1.28 inch sub-LCD on the top of the camera, a current feature of the medium format FUJIFILM GFX 50S, allows for instant confirmation of shooting information.

 

3. Improved operability with a total of 19 modifications based on feedback from professional photographers

 

The camera uses a large-grip design with the new shape and a leaf-spring switch for the shutter-release button to achieve a stable feel when holding the camera and easy operation of the shutter-release button to ensure no opportunities are missed.

The camera has the quietest shutter sound of all cameras in the X Series, making it an ideal tool for environments where quietness is required such as when shooting animals in the wild, quiet performances or at weddings.

 

A new AF-ON button has been added to the back of the camera. This makes it easier to operate the autofocus with the thumb, allowing the photographer to focus on using their index finger to operate the shutter-release button. In addition, other modifications have been made to improve operability, including the enlargement of the buttons on the rear of the camera and improvements to the grip of the front and rear command dials.

 

The X-H1 also features focus lever that facilitates rapid, accurate movement to the desired focus point.

 

 

4. Comprehensive range of video features to support movie production requirements

 

The X-H1 is the first camera in the X Series to include ETERNA, a new film simulation ideal for shooting movies. This mode simulates cinematic film, creating understated colors and rich shadow tones, greatly enhancing creative freedom during post-processing. The camera's video image quality has been improved through the new ability to record a high bit rate of 200 Mbps.

 

The camera includes a total of 20 functional and performance improvements including the 1080/120P high-speed video mode (1/2, 1/4 and 1/5 speed slow motion) for recording spectacular slow-motion footage, F-log*4 SD card recording which aids smooth workflow, a DCI 4K shooting mode (4096×2160), a 400% dynamic range setting (approximately 12 stops), 200 Mbps high bit rate recording, a high-sound quality internal microphone (24 bit/48 kHz) and verbal time codes.

 

*4 The colour space is defined according to ITU-R BT.2020.

 

5. The first flicker reduction mode on an X Series Camera and improved AF algorithms enhance shooting toughness

Flicker reduction modes are essential for indoor sport photography, and the X-H1 achieves this using a mirrorless camera, allowing for stable exposure during burst shots even under fluorescent and mercury lighting.

In addition, improvements to the AF algorithm have achieved the following performance enhancements:

-       The low-light limit for phase detection auto-focus has been improved by approximately 1.5 stops from 0.5EV to -1.0EV, raising the precision and speed of auto-focus in low-light environments.

-       The range at minimum aperture has been expanded from F8 to F11. For example, even when using the XF100-400mmF4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR with the teleconverter XF2X TC WR, phase detection auto-focus can now be used.

-       Major improvements have been made to the AF-C performance while operating the zoom, which provides major benefits when shooting sports and other scenarios in which the subjects moves unpredictably.

-       Subjects where results with phase detection auto-focus were previously poor, such as finely-detailed surface textures; wild birds and wild animals, can now be captured at high speed and with high precision.

6. Dedicated separate accessories to support the system

Vertical power boost grip VPB-XH1 *Exclusively for the X-H1

-       Dust-resistant and water-resistant, the grip operates at temperatures of down to -10°C. Two batteries may be attached, with a third battery in the body of the camera increasing the maximum number of available shots in normal mode to approximately 900. In boost mode, multiple batteries can be used simultaneously, improving performance for burst shots and reducing the interval between shots, shutter time lag, and the blackout period.

-       In addition, the accessory also increases the maximum period for shooting movies in 4K to about 30 minutes, making the VPB-XH1 an essential accessory for maximising the performance of the X-H1.

-       Controls include the shutter-release button, focus lever, AE-L button, AF-ON button, command dial, Q button, and Fn button, providing the same easy operation when using the camera in both the vertical and horizontal positions.

-       The VPB-XH1 is equipped with a headphone socket, allowing the operator to monitor sound while recording video.

-       The grip also includes recharging capability. The included AC adaptor (AC-9VS) can be used to recharge two batteries simultaneously over approximately 2 hours.

 

Wide-eye cup EC-XH-W *Common for X Series and GFX cameras

-       The wide cup covers a broad area around the eye, greatly reducing light interference and enhancing concentration during long shoots.

-       The eye cup can also be rotated in 90° increments, making it adaptable for either the left eye or the right eye and for shooting in either vertical or horizontal position. The cup also includes anti-static coating, reducing the adherence of dust.

Fujifilm X-H1 Specification

Model name FUJIFILM X-H1
Number of effective pixels 24.3 millions pixels
Image sensor 23.5mm×15.6mm (APS-C) X-Trans CMOS III with primary color filter.
Sensor cleaning system Ultra Sonic Vibration
Storage media SD Card (~2GB) / SDHC Card (~32GB) / SDXC Card (~256GB)   UHS-I / UHS-II*1
Lens mount FUJIFILM X mount
Image Stabilizer Mechanism Image sensor shift mechanism with 5-axis compensation
  Compensation Effect 5.5 stops (based on CIPA standard. Pitch/yaw shake only. With XF35mmF1.4 R lens mounted.
Sensitivity Standard output AUTO1 / AUTO2 / AUTO3 (up to ISO12800) / ISO200~12800 (1/3 step)
Extended output ISO100/125/160/25600/51200
Viewfinder

0.5 inch approx. 3.69 millions dots OLED Color Viewfinder

Coverage of viewing area vs. capturing area: approx. 100%

Eyepoint: approx. 23mm (from the rear end of the camera’s eyepiece) Diopter adjustment: -4~+2m-1

Magnification: 0.75× with 50mm lens (35mm equivalent) at infinity and diopter set to -1.0m-1

Diagonal angle of view: approx. 38° (Horizontal angle of view: approx. 30° )

Built-in eye sensor

LCD monitor 3.0 inch, aspect ratio 3:2, approx. 1.04 millions dots touch screen color LCD monitor(approx. 100% coverage)
Continuous shooting

14.0 fps (with the Electronic Shutter), 8.0 fps (with the Mechanical Shutter)

11.0 fps (with the Mechanical Shutter and when fitted with VPB-XH1)

Movie recording

[4K (4096×2160)] 24P / 23.98P up to approx. 15min.

[4K (3840×2160)] 29.97P / 25P / 24P / 23.98P up to approx. 15min.

[Full HD (1920×1080)] 59.94P / 50P / 29.97P / 25P / 24P / 23.98P up to approx. 20min.

[HD (1280×720)] 59.94P / 50P / 29.97P / 25P / 24P / 23.98P up to approx. 30min.

*For recording movies, use a card with UHS Speed Class 3 or higher.

*With Vertical Power Booster Grip attached, individual movie recording time is extended up to approx. 30min. on both 4K and Full HD mode.

Wireless transmitter

Standards: IEEE 802.11b / g / n [standard wireless protocol]

Access mode: Infrastructure

Encryption: WEP / WPA / WPA2 mixed mode

Bluetooth®

Standard: Bluetooth Ver. 4.0(Bluetooth® low energy)

Operating frequency (Center frequency): 2402~2480MHz

Power supply NP-W126S Li-ion battery (included)
Dimensions / Weight

((W) 139.8mm × (H) 97.3mm × (D) 85.5mm (minimum depth 39.5mm)

Approx. 673g (including battery and memory card)

Approx. 623g (excluding battery and memory card)

Battery life for still images

 *2

Approx. 310frams (Normal Mode) When XF35mmF1.4 R is set.
Accessories included Li-ion battery NP-W126S, Battery charger BC-W126, Shoe-mount flash unit EF-X8, Shoulder strap, Body cap, Strap clip, Protective cover, Clip attaching tool, Hot shoe cover, Vertical Power Booster Grip connector cover, Sync terminal cover, Cable protector Owner's manual

 


What's your expectation as a photographer?

// 15 min read -  Personal viewpoint article about the expectations of being a photographer from the first day with a new camera to ten years later.

 

Do you remember that first real camera that you picked up and thought, photography, I might give this a go. We all remember it, for some of us it's a while ago but for others, it's a fresh memory.

My first 'proper' camera was a Nikon d200, I wanted a Canon but the cash wasn't there at that moment, so, Nikon it was. I remember picking up a second hand Sigma flash and Manfrotto Tripod. I was ready to take on the world - with my one 18-70mm lens... I had dreams of international flights, shoots in Hollywood and a garage full of fast bikes, Harleys and old Triumphs. It quickly turned out that I was drinking the wrong kool-aid and was brought back to earth with a bump. So what should my expectations be for the First Day, First Week, First Month, First Year or First Decade?

For this, I am building from the idea that this is your first 'real' camera.

First Day // Where are the buttons

Most likely, the first day has been a while coming and you will know what you want to do with your camera. You will know if you are planning a hobby or if this is a new look at a new way of earning. You will most likely know if you are headed to Uni or just going to read some blogs and watch some Youtube videos.

After doing your updates, and learning where the buttons are, read the manual and look for any fun stuff to have a play with. Maybe set the right date, WiFi settings - if it has some. Download some apps that might be worthwhile - such as the Fujifilm apps, if you have a Fujifilm camera etc.  Maybe sign up for Instagram with a new photography account or start to think about how you are going to share your journey.  Your first day is going to about learning the camera and trying to fit all your new kit in your camera bag.

“Photography is a unique blend of emotion and technology. We always need to understand the roles both play, then, understand we have control over both”
— Dave Kai Piper

First Week // What are other people doing.

This is where the fun starts - You have most likely bought a new hard drive for your new files and started looking at ways to explore the world around you. You have most likely found 500px, Behance, Flickr, a few facebook groups and some books about your chosen genre of choice. Most likely you have found a youtube channel and started to look in depth at what other people are doing. In my mind, this should be the start of the observation stage. As photographers, we have to learn to be visual. We have to learn to be in tune with our subjects and what we want to photograph, however, the reality is that we still have no clue what the settings are doing or how to change them.

Getting off auto mode is the idea for week one - just being able to take a photo is the ball game. We might spend some time looking at the internet trying to learn what the exposure triangle is, what Raw and Jpeg are or what people mean when they talk about long exposure or leading lines.  There can be lots of terms and techniques in photography, being honest, you don't have to know them all, in fact you don't even have to know half. You just have to know how to set the camera to take the image you intend to create and not what the camera says you should.

At the end of week one, knowing that you can control all the settings - even if you don't really understand them is the idea.

“Your first 1000 photographs are your worst.”
— Henri Cartier Bresson

 

First Month // Why are they doing that.

We now are looking back at the camera shops and online. Looking at all the things we think we need to be able to create the images we want. We are looking at lighting, tripods & filters. We are looking at better memory cards, shutter release cables and better camera bags and we might even be looking at the camera we bought and wondering why the images we are taking are not like the images you are seeing from other people.

I would think that some point in the first month you are looking at programs like Lightroom and Photoshop with interest and wondering if they are things you need. Most likely you have looked at free editing apps like Nik software and Snapseed. In the kindest way possible I would urge you to steer away from HDR and color popping, you will thank me in the years to come.

The main things that you might expect from your first month will result from looking at other peoples images. Exif data is the reference data that is stored along with your photo. It contains the lens info, camera setting info as well as time and dates etc. The reason that I mention this is that many people feel like they can learn more about a photograph by knowing the exif data, then trying to work out if those settings might work for them too - the reality is that exif data only ever gives you half the story. Knowing why these settings have been used is key, and you will never get that info from the exif.  Knowing how to change a setting is very different to knowing why you would change it.

Things like lenses, focal lengths and apertures are going to be on your mind - as well as quickly working out your hobby is not quite as cheap as you thought it might be. If you bought correctly at the early stage, you might have a 50mm or 35mm prime lens as your first lens. Even though you think that you need every lens there is at this stage. With a good solid 50mm or 35mm prime, there is nothing you can not do, you might feel limited right now, but trust me, that's just a mindset.

Try and remember - photography is equal parts tech and art. Photography is a unique blend of emotion and technology. We always need to understand the roles both play, then, understand we have control over both. Buying more kit won't help but learning, reading, talking and engaging with other photographers, artists and the wider world will.

“There are no bad pictures; that's just how your face looks sometimes.” 
— Abraham Lincoln

 

First Year //  Photography is easy, if you have the kit.

You're now into a groove and even getting some love for your work. People are taking an interest in what you are doing and you are happy with where you are. Your thirst for more kit is well and truly something that you have burning inside of you. Your thoughts are will 'full frame' cameras and fast primes and zooms be better, if it's not 2.8 or faster, it's not for you. Tripods are only really tripods if they are carbon fiber and your knowledge of lighting is encyclopedic. Your Instagram page is full of comments and you get 100's of likes per image you post as you have worked out that your social media profile is actually more important than your photography.

If you have been actively shooting all year you have done well, but, unless you are that 1 in a billion, next year,  you will see how wrong you were all this year and your photos are quite boring after all and that HDR does not actually look that good after all.  Self-doubt is the biggest hurdle for us all.

Time and time again, in pretty much every article I have written of the last 5 years, I have tried to mention that photography is a mental sport and the technical aspect is only one of the areas we must learn. The camera is, at times the least important element and the easiest to learn.  At the end of year one, echoes of this thought might start to ring true in your mind. Most people will think that a better camera or a better lens will prove me wrong.  Most people will blame the equipment before blaming themselves - this is totally natural, but in 9 years time you will be back to one camera and one lens, or thereabouts.

Having a visual mind takes years to develop and years more to fully understand. Some photographers take photos, some photographers create images while some photographers blend the lines and toy with what is and what is not photography. The things that separate out photographers from the rest is that real photographers have stories to explore, most of them would be doing this exploration with or without the cameras as it is inbuilt to the core and fiber of who they are. If you don't like being outside - you're never going to be a landscape photographer. If you don't like people, you are never going to be a portrait photographer. Even if you really love photography, unless you really understand the genre you are looking at, moving forward is going to be hard work for you.

Model // Chembo

“To me, photography is an art of observation. It’s about finding something interesting in an ordinary place… I’ve found it has little to do with the things you see and everything to do with the way you see them.”
— Ellitt Erwitt

 

First Decade //  This is what I did.

The Reflection

When writing this article, this was the bit I was dreading. I have tried to be brutally honest. The real-life aspects of being a 'photographer' in 2018 are really not what I thought they would be. My last 10 years have been a fucking roller coaster of ups and downs. If I could redo the last 10 years, I would do things very differently. It took me a long time to learn the things I know today and I think I could of learned them faster if I had been a little less hostile and little more humble along the way. Listening to criticism was the hardest for me & it still is. There is a fine balance we need as artists that lets us explore the world in the way we want to and being closed off from people that are trying to help.  Looking back, knowing who to trust and who to listen to was the hardest challenge. For every one person saying one thing, there was an equal number on the other side saying the other.

So, ten years in, after a decade where can you expect to be. I would assume you would have a number of publications and maybe looking at running a showcase of your work soon. You will have a website that showcases your work with personal projects that you are currently working on. You will have roughly 15 images you are really proud of and understand that adding 2 or 3 images to your main portfolio each year is a good year. The idea that photography is not a race and you will have the idea that one of the worst things you can do is become 'to close' to your work. Staying subjective and on 'message' is the most important aspect.

A potential checklist:  in a decade - things you might have done.

  • Sold a photograph
  • Being paid for a shoot
  • Worked internationally
  • Published images
  • Front cover of a magazine
  • Awards or industry recognition
  • Gallery show
  • Solo Artist Gallery show
  • Published interview
  • Developed audience
  • Personal Projects
  • Printed body of work
  • Global audience
  • Commerical Agent
  • Key-note speaker
  • Ambassadorship

This is not a list that you have to do or a list that should be done. But it is a rough idea of the levels you achieve if work is put in.

Below // Grimsby Sea Front.   

“The camera is an excuse to be someplace you otherwise don’t belong. It gives me both a point of connection and a point of separation.”
— Susan Meiselas

The positive bits

After your decade of hard work, you will have a unique outlook on life. Your photography will of opened doors, took you places and developed your own self. If you have done it right, you will have a catalog that is unique to you and your life. One of the things that I love about my life is that I have done my best, when possible to get out and explore - photography gives me that reason.

I came to the conclusion a while ago my happiness is not linked to money, it is linked to experiences and memories. If you are looking to get rich, from my knowledge of the photography world, it is that you're going to have more luck pushing the business elements than the artistic element,  but as a career that develops the soul - it's incredible.

This image is my Grandma and Grandad celebrating their 70th Wedding Anniversary. It does not matter if photography is your hobby or career, being able to record and document the world around you is a wonderful feeling. Images like the one below mean so much to me, more than any commissioned portfolio image or magazine cover.

I hope you enjoyed this blog -

It was written with the idea of dispelling some of the myths about being a photographer. From all levels I think we all find it tough, we find it rewarding too though.

During my 10 years taking photos the thing I have noticed most is how people treat us, let me explain. When I first started shooting, I found it was easy to be motivated - lots of people would comment on my work on Facebook and the different social media worlds, these days the internet is a different place. I find it very hard to get any traction at all online compared to when I first started posting images online. Is this because I am not as good or because the platforms are different. It might not seem important, but my confidence does go up and down, linked to how I think my work is received.  I have looked into this and I can not quite put my finger on it. I think I am a better photographer? My work seems more rounded and more relevant to who I am and in context with the audience, yet, I feel like my work is far less seen and less liked than ever - I am not sure if this is my perception as the buzz is gone, sometimes I feel like my flame is gone - but then I just carry on anyway and create something I know is better than I did last week.

Over the years I have slowed understood that we do better when we make images we want to make. I seem to be happiest with my work when I am making it for me - this does not always make good sense for business or does it make sense for social media. Take the image above and below for example. I know for a fact that if I was to post the one with my grandparents on Instagram I would have people unfollow me and it would get very few likes. I post the image below of Lauren and it gets a ton of love. For many new photographers coming through looking at social media and how photography is linked to it might get a distorted view.  There is a growing problem with social media - I have not quite worked it out, but I know I don't like it.  I am quite worried that the next generation of photographers will be more interested in chasing likes than making images.

You can find my website here: www.davekaipiper.com
Dave@davepiper.co.uk

 

 


Got a new camera for Christmas, awesome, what's next?

If this is your first 'camera' that does not have a phone attached, there might be something that you will want know - this article might be just for you.

Fashion & Portrait Photographer - setting up for a winter shoot on location

 

Setting up checklist:

1: Update your firmware.

Your camera might be new to you, but how has it been out the factory? It is highly likely that you will need to do an update. (click here for the Fujifilm Firmware downloads site). Don't forget about the lens firmware too. All the info can be found on the Fujifilm website. As a company Fujifilm provides a few updates a year, doing these updates will improve your camera & they are free.

2: Charge your battery.

As per the instruction manual - give your battery a good charge before you use it. Look after your batteries your camera is useless without them.

3: Set the time and date on the camera.

Your camera has an internal memory, it can save the date and time to each image. This might seem not that important, but this info lives in the digital photos meaning that years from now you can search for the images you took by date. Very handy when you want to just find that image of the cat pulling the Chrismas down each year. Your camera can save other data too such as the lens you used and the settings of the camera. This is called EXIF data. Some of the fun things you can do are change the name of the files the camera saves and the copyright data about who owns the camera.

4: Warranty & register your stuff.

If you're like me, your camera was not cheap. Remember to add it to your home insurance, fill out the Warranty card and if you use any serial number register sites - update your accounts. Keep a note of your serial numbers. The Fujifilm Professional Service is something we full think you should have a look at too. Get more info here: www.fujiholics.com/fujifilm-professional-service/

FPS service includes:

·         Maximum 15 day turnaround for X Series camera’s and lenses and a 10 day turnaround for Fujifilm GFX bodies and lenses. This is calculated between pick-up & delivery.
If the turnaround time cannot be met, for example, if parts are not available… Fujifilm will offer the customer a free loan until the customers repaired camera is returned to them.

·         Free health check and sensor clean for up to 2 products in any one year

·         Dedicated telephone line support

·         15% discount on any out-of-warranty repair

5: Get out, take photos and take over the world.

The handbook is not for show, it does have some stuff that is important. You don't have to read it cover to cover and it won't help you learn photography, but it will help you navigate around and find the buttons. Photography is not a science, nor is it pure art - it is a unique blend of two - learning the technology will help you create the photos your mind sees. There is no race, no finish line and to a large extent no wrong way to take a photograph. The only thing that will help you be a better photographer is time, patience and practice.

Jodi Lakin - Rooftop in Birmingham

At first, it may not all make sense to you but your manual will help you get past the first few steps. It will help you set up your camera and get started. I am not saying to study it and learn it word for word but later as you start to use your camera you may recall reading something that you can then go back to as a reference.

Set the time and date on the camera, check that you know, how to change some of the settings, knowing how to change core settings and what the core settings mean is the first few steps, however, the most important thing about your new camera is the understanding that it is a camera, it is tough, well built and will be able to take some knocks. Keeping it in a box on the shelf is not going to help you with your photography. Keeping the camera handy, charged and ready to go is the best idea. Building up trust and a bond with your camera is the way forward, I say this with the best intention, don't worry about a few raindrops, scratches or carrying about with you, your camera is way tougher than you think.

Every photo is not going to be a keeper, in 10 in 1000 is a really good hit rate, I have been shooting 15 years now and if I add 5 photos to my portfolio in 2018, it will be an outstanding year. Scale this down to any level and the idea is that, while learning about cameras, manual modes, shutter speeds, focal lengths the first few thousand photos are most likely not going to make a gallery show. This is normal, just as getting frustrated with blurry photos is normal. The secret is to keep it simple and keep going, don't be disheartened.

If reading manuals is not your 'thing' that's total fine,  the internet is a wonderful tool, just be aware that anyone can post anything they like, we would recommend talking to other people in communities – just like Fujiholics. There are also lots of options of workshops that Fujiholics provide to get you where you want to be. Check the website out for more information.

Getting ready for your first big outing with your new camera here are a few things you may want to consider before heading out. Have you got a camera strap, a bag, spare batteries, memory cards or maybe a tripod? What are the next few steps going to hold? What are you off to photograph?

Camera Straps.

Would you be shocked to know that not everyone thinks they are a good idea? A general rule take by most people who shoot often is that a camera should either be in your hand carefully stored away in a camera bag. I personally am not a fan of having my camera on a strap hanging around my neck. Yes, it does give you quick easy access to your camera but you also don't want all that weight dangling off your neck, not for the cameras sake but for your neck. I have seen my fair share of cameras fall off shoulders, get caught on clothing and just cause more hassle dangling on a strap. If you have anything longer than a 35mm lens it's just not going to be comfy or practical in my eyes. This being said, they do have a time and a place. If you are using multiple cameras shooting a wedding or at an event for example. Unless this is you, get a little bag and keep the camera tucked away in that to carry about – safer and more secure. If you are looking for a camera strap, either Black Rapid or Peak Design are the brands to look for.

Wrist straps, however, do make an awesome addition to your kit because it means when your camera is out the bag it's safely attached to your wrist which means if you do drop your camera it's not going to go anywhere. The system works together meaning you can switch the wrist cuff to the shoulder strap too. If you are shooting with a small system camera, belt clips can be great if you need to store your camera fast. The main worry here is the size and weight of your camera on your trousers belt. I would always go back to the idea that a photo-specialized bag is the best option unless the camera is in your hand.

Photo-specialized bag.

There are many different types and styles of camera bags available, whether you want a waist belt, backpack, shoulder bag or sling bag the one thing they will all do is help keep your camera that little bit safer when transporting your gear. If you are unsure of what bag is right for you to take your camera to the shop and try it out in a few different bags. This will help you double check that your camera will fit in the bag that you like, but will also give you an idea of how carrying that bag with your gear in it may affect you throughout the day. There is nothing worse than having the wrong bag for you and your gear resulting in back pain. Your camera bag is an important piece of kit and not something you want to cheap out on. If its uncomfortable or ugly you are more likely to leave it at home which means missed photo opportunities, it will also take a lot of abuse protecting your gear inside. You want it to be weather resistant and protect your gear from any knocks so good padding is really important. Picking the right bag is key. They range from small amounts of cash to full flight cases for hundreds of pounds and everything in the middle. We like Billingham, Peak Design, and Domke. If you're looking for some ultimate protection your looking for a Peli case - the least practical option but great for transporting and a place for your camera to live at home.

Billingham's Hadley Pro Shuolder bag

Battery power

As you start to use your camera more and more you may want to consider investing in a few spare batteries. The best batteries to buy are always those produced by your camera manufacturer, but there are other third-party brands available. A great option is to pick up a battery grip if your a heavy shooter.

The best way to ensure your battery gives you the best bang for your buck is to shoot quick, short and precise. Think about your photos and don't get carried away. Take a photo & review, if you have the shot, carry on to the next one. When using the LCD, try to remember that screen is the biggest power drain on the battery. Be confident, shoot, quick review and carry on. Do your proper reviews later on a computer – where you can see the images on a better, bigger screen.

 

Memory Cards

There are different sizes and speeds. The faster and bigger the card, the more money you will pay. There are two big brands – Lexar and San Disk, most people trust these brands in pro world. If you try and save money here, do it at your peril.

Most cameras will take SD cards, some of the cameras higher in the range have two card slots. In the settings, you can adjust how these two slots work. Most photographers have the images written to both cards so you have a back up instantly.

You might need to buy an SD card reader if your computer does not have an SD card reader. Go for something well built using a USB 3 connection. Most cameras these days support the fastest cards (SDHC II) and ensuring you have a fast reader will speed up the time it takes to move them over.

DKP's tip - Go for Class 10 Cards and SDHC cards - but check your camera can handle the cards - if you have a question - Ask the Fujiholics FB group here

If you want to learn more about SD cards - TechRader have a wonderful blog all about this - http://www.techradar.com/news/sd-memory-card-buying-guide

Tripods

You may want to consider investing in a decent tripod. In the learning stages, we really encourage getting your camera stable so that you can experiment about with settings to see what they do.

For anyone looking at landscape photography, it is an essential piece of kit. Some photographers spend thousands on a good tripod, never underestimate how important having your camera stable can be. Because it will hold your camera at exactly the right angle you want and will keep it still so that your images are full of detail and pin sharp. Your tripod is a piece of kit that you will want to invest in, don't buy cheap because it is the tool that keeps your camera absolutely still, you don't want out of focus pictures because your tripod moves every time there is a breeze or when you touch your camera. You also definitely don't want your tripod to blow over with your camera on top. When shopping for your new tripod lookout for one that extends to eye level but also allows you to shoot close to the ground as well. Personally, I am more in favor of carbon fiber tripods because they are durable but also lightweight which is great for traveling. There is a place for heavy tripods and lightweight tripods, big tripods and small ones.

We like 3 Legged Thing tripods.

Off Camera Flash.

Depending on your camera, might have a built-in flash or no flash at all. In fact, the more you have paid, the less likely you are to have a flash. Cameras like the X-T2 and X-Pro2 only have a hot shoe mount and don't have any built-in flash, nor does the GFX. Cameras like the X100f do come with a small built-in flash though.

This might not make sense at first as you would think the more you pay the more you get, this is not always the sense. The small flash you find on cameras is called the 'on-camera' flash and is not going to give you the sort of effect that moving the flash away from the camera and really working on your light is ever going to give. The pro range cameras don't have flash built in, as it's just not a feature a pro would use.

Taking control of your lighting is going to be something everyone moves on to pretty quick if you want to photograph people or be in a place to be able to create images rather than just find them.

Filters.

The best way to think of a filter is like a pair of sunglasses for your camera and about as many options too.

Companies like Lee Filters have great websites to explain all the options.  http://www.leefilters.com/

There are two main types of filter - ones that screw on to the end of the lens and the system is shown below - this is more known as a filter system. While it gives you more flexibility and options, expect to pay more for a proper system.

My first filter, like pretty much every photographer's first filter was a protective filter that screws into the lens. It does not change the optics of the lens or affect the settings but does offer some protective elements from UV and physical damage. Normally the next filters people look are Polarisers or ND filters but there are many options. Ask in the Fujiholics group for more info or head to your local dealer.

Editing.

In this digital world, most of the images we take are headed for the internet – they are going to have a digital workflow and be viewed on a digital device. Non-digital photography is alive, but very rare. These days when we talk about editing we are normally taking about software packages like Lightroom or app's like Snapseed. The import thing to know is that everyone does things differently – there is no right or wrong.

Your photography is your photography. Edit it, don't edit it – no one should tell you what is wrong or right – but, there are better ways and worse ways to approach it all. The world of digital editing is a massive ever-evolving mass of new apps, tools, processes, and techniques. In the most simple form, you can send images to an iPad or phone and use apps like Snapseed to make adjustments then post them to Instagram or Facebook direct from the camera. From this stage, the next level up would be to use a catalog & editing program like Lightroom. This is where you can start to use the full power of your camera using the RAW format – giving you extra room to edit the images compared to the standard JEPG setting. Programs like Lightroom can be very powerful programs and offer enough for all but the very progressive photographer. Beyond Lightroom programs like Photoshop are your high-end specialty editing program tools. It is worth again pointing out that you can do as little or much digital work as you like or need to tell your story with your image.

If you are using a Fujifilm camera, don't forget you have the wonderful Film Simulation modes you can access the menu or via the Q button. Many pro-photographers love the Acros Black and white setting. Learn more about the Fujifilm Simulations here :

Exporting, Sharing and online communities.

This might be an odd one to put up on this blog, but I think it's more important than we might think at first look. To kick this off, I would state that although Facebook is the most obvious place to start, there are better options if you want to showcase your work, and for many reasons too.  Looking at photography based websites and online communities is going to be a better way to move forward.

Knowing the best ways to get your images online in a good way can be tricky. There is so much to cover on this topic, that it's going to be more of a homework challenge but, I would recommend looking at these sites & looking at how to add watermarks to your images.  Online photo-based portfolio sites like SmugMug take all the hard out of getting your images online, then sites like Behance and 500px are good places to share your work and look at other photographers amazing work too.

Check this pages out for some amazing work:

www.vonwong.com
www.peterdench.com
www.joecornishgallery.co.uk
www.woland.co.uk
 www.davekaipiper.com

What's next ?

Get shooting, that is the most important element. Look up the exposure triangle, learn what the camera modes do & learn how to active them, change them and get comfy with the camera.

Once you have some image you like and are proud of, get them printed. Your local camera store will help you with that and also if you ask them they might give you some advice on getting stronger images too.

Maybe book on to a workshop where you can not only ask the questions you have but meet other people learning too.

Join an online community and participate – share what you have learned and be proud to show the images you have made. Maybe even join a local camera club? if you have a question - Ask the Fujiholics FB group here

Most importantly, don't give up and don't leave the camera at home.


Fujifilm GFX-50s, X-T2 & X-T20 firmware updates

GFX 50S

1)    Support “FUJIFILM X RAW STUDIO” for Macintosh

a.     Once connecting a camera to a computer via USB cable, the “FUJIFILM X RAW STUDIO” enables users to convert RAW files with X Processor Pro. The fast batch processing will also be available. The “FUJIFILM X RAW STUDIO” can be downloaded from the FUJIFILM website for free.

2)    Improve radio flash controller usability The upgrade allows users to shoot with compatible third-party studio flash in high-speed sync. or TTL mode via their radio controllers.

3)    Support for backup/restore of camera settings via “FUJIFILM X Acquire” Once connecting a camera to a computer via USB cable, the “FUJIFILM X Acquire” allows users to backup/restore camera settings to/from a file. Copying all camera settings from one camera to another is available.

4)    Addition of “Eye Sensor + LCD Image Display” in the View Mode The update gives the “Eye Sensor + LCD Image Display” option in the View Mode that allows you to shoot through the viewfinder and check images on the LCD, just as you would with an SLR.

5)    ON/OFF for 1/3-step shutter speed adjustment, The update allows you to turn off the Command Dial's function to adjust shutter speed by 1/3 steps in order to prevent unintended adjustments.

6)    Addition of “Shoot Without Card” mode With the update, you can have the “Shoot Without Card” mode turned OFF so that the camera will not shoot when there is no SD card inserted.

7)    Addition of “-6” and “-7” to EVF's brightness setting The update will extend the “EVF Brightness” setting options to “-6” and “-7” so that, even in an extremely low-light condition, the brightness of the EVF does not distract you from shooting.

8)    Support for “ Instax SHARE SP-3” Additionally, “Instax SHERE SP-3” has become compatible with this camera.

Latest firmware can be found HERE


 X-T2

1)    New AF tracking algorithm for moving subject Thanks to the newly developed image recognition algorithm, the update enhances AF-C to track moving subjects twice as fast as previous firmware. In addition, the update also enhances tracking to be able to capture up to 50% smaller moving subjects than before.

2)    Support “FUJIFILM X RAW STUDIO” for Macintosh

3)    Improve radio flash controller usability The upgrade allows users to shoot with compatible third-party studio flash in high-speed sync. or TTL mode via their radio controllers.

4)    Support for backup/restore of camera settings via “FUJIFILM X Acquire” Once connecting a camera to a computer via USB cable, the “FUJIFILM X Acquire” allows users to backup/restore camera settings to/from a file. Copying all camera settings from one camera to another is available.

5)    Support for “Instax SHARE SP-3” Additionally,” Instax SHERE SP-3” has become compatible with this camera.

6)    RGB histogram display and highlight warning If you press the function button allocated to the histogram, RGB histogram and highlight warning (High brightness portion will blink.) are displayed.

7)    The phenomenon is fixed that exposure compensation is not correctly reflected the brightness of live view on LCD and EVF when ISO setting is “AUTO”, exposure compensation is “C” and it is changed by the command dial.

Latest firmware can be found HERE


X-T20

1)    Touch panel operation when using the EVF

a.     The firmware update will make it possible to use the touch panel while looking into the viewfinder. According to the operation method, it's possible to set the effective range of the touch panel to the full screen, right half, left half, or OFF.

2)    Support for “Instax SHARE SP-3” Additionally, “Instax SHERE SP-3” has become compatible with this camera.

Latest firmware can be found HERE


X Acquire version 1.7

(1) BACKUP & RESTORE function is added in USER SETTING

When FUJIFILM X Acquire is used, this function can save all camera settings as a file and restore the

setting from a stored setting. Therefore, you can change the camera settings at a moment and copy

them to multiple cameras.


As usual, all firmware updates can be found on Fujifilm's camera support site HERE


Fujifilm X-T20 Best Product 2017-2018 EISA Award

Fujifilm have just added another accolade to their existing collection by have the Fujifilm X-T20 voted EISA European Product of the Year 2017-2018.

This will be Fujifilm sixth consecutive year of EISA awards starting in 2011 when the Fujifilm X100 won, 2012 Fujifilm X-Pro1, 2013 X100S, double honours in 2014 for the Fujifilm X-T1 & Fujinon XF56mm F1.2 R, double honours in 2015 for the X-T10 & Fujinon XF16-55mm R LM WR lens and double honours again in 2016 for the Fujifilm X-Pro2 & Funinon XF100-400mm F4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR lens.

The FUJIFILM X-T20 is a compact, mirrorless consumer camera that produces sharp, clean images and 4K video quality.  At the heart of the camera is its 24.3 million pixel X-Trans CMOS III sensor and X-Processor Pro, which are jointly responsible for the extraordinary image quality. Despite its comparatively affordable price, the X-T20 uses the same high quality sensor and processor as the highly regarded FUJIFILM X-T2 and FUJIFILM X-Pro2.  The touchscreen operation and custom AF-C setting are also huge advantages. Finally the X-T20’s sharp and highly detailed 4K video recording makes this camera a great all-rounder for every photographer. Fujifilm is committed to working on the development of excellent products and services that address user needs, thereby contributing to the further development of photographic culture around the world.


25% off Fujifilm Hire @ HireACamera.com

HireACamera.com have an exclusive offer on their range of Fujifilm cameras and lenses.

This offer allows you to get 25% off the hire of any Fujifilm body or lens. What makes this great, that the offer also applies to Fujifilm's GFX 50s for anyone wanting to hire it to try.

Andreas Georghiades, Fujifilm UK’s Marketing Manager said

‘ The real joy of Fujifilm cameras
is the combination of traditional styling with cutting edge technology. They are designed with
the photographer in mind to make you fall in love with taking pictures and we want to get our
cameras and lenses into more people's hands.
Our partnership with Hireacamera will give more people the opportunity to use Fujifilm
cameras and lenses for short, medium or long-term hires at a fraction of the price, and might
just be the incentive they need to see for themselves what the fuss is all about.
Whether you want to test some of our latest cameras, or need a backup to your existing kit
for a shoot, Hireacamera offers the perfect solution.”

Guy Thatcher, Managing Director at Hireacamera was equally delighted, he commented,

‘The growing levels of excitement about Fujifilm’s cameras grew consistently throughout
2016 and the surge of interest we received when the GFX release dates were announced,
earlier this year, was unprecedented. To that end, we’ve worked collaboratively with Fujifilm
to deliver this very attractive offering to everyone who is interested in Fujifilm cameras.’

If you would like to take advantage of this offer, the offer will be automatically applied to rental prices from 18/03/2017.

Hire A Camera Link


Fujifilm Professional Service

Fujifilm Professional Service

Fujifilm have an excellent record when it comes to customer service and servicing/repair of their customers equipment with service & repair centres across all major European countries with larger service centres located in UK, France & Portugal. All service centres are staffed by Fujifilm’s highly skilled repair engineers to make sure any servicing or repairs are done to a high standard.

As more and more professional photographers are switching to Fujifilm mirrorless cameras like the X-Series X-Pro2 & X-T2 and the additional launch of Fujifilm’s GFX medium format camera on 1st March 2017… Fujifilm, after carrying out extensive research and listening to photographer feedback for the need to have a dependable service with a guaranteed service time have announced their new Fujifilm Professional Service (Fujifilm FPS) which will be available from 1st March 2017 which will be available in biggest markets like UK & Germany and will gradually expand to major European markets such as Turkey & Russia.

How does Fujifilm Professional Service work?

There is an annual cost of £260 (300 euro) but will be offered free for 2 years to those who qualify. Qualification is offered to working photographers and also those who own a Fujifilm GFX medium format camera or at least 2 professional camera bodies and 3 XF lenses.

FPS service includes:

·         Maximum 15 day turnaround for X Series camera’s and lenses and a 10 day turnaround for Fujifilm GFX bodies and lenses. This is calculated between pick-up & delivery.
If the turnaround time cannot be met, for example, if parts are not available… Fujifilm will offer the customer a free loan until the customers repaired camera is returned to them.

·         Free health check and sensor clean for up to 2 products in any one year

·         Dedicated telephone line support

·         15% discount on any out-of-warranty repair


Fujifilm X-T1 firmware update v5.01

A new firmware has been released for the Fujifilm X-T1, this addresses the following:

1. The functions allocated to the Front command dial are added which became disable when the firmware was upgraded to ver.5.00 from ver.4.31.
2. The functionality when using with a flash is improved.

The firmware can be downloaded from Fujifilm's official downloads page here

 


Fujifilm XP120

Fujifilm have announced the lightweight and rugged FinePix XP120 in four fun colours, which is a perfect camera for outdoor activities and family adventures.

The Fujifilm XP120 features a 16.1 megapixel back illuminated CMOS sensor with a 3.0-inch LCD screen in a compact body weighing just 203g. The XP120 is available in four cool colours.

The camera is also waterproof to 20m, shockproof 1.75m, freeze proof to -10c and is also dust proof.

The Xp120 is equipped with a Fujinon lens that reproduces Fuji's unique colours and advanced sharpness to deliver outstanding image quality.

The Xp120 has extensive shooting functions including the all-new Cinemagraph mode for enhanced artistic expression. Cinemagraph mode can produce still images with moving elements. Moving Elements make a stark contrast against the rest of the still image, where it looks as if time has been frozen.

The Xp120 has a burst mode of up to 10 fps, smooth HD video recording at 60 fps, timelaspe, recording, useful for fixed-point observation of scenes.

Additionally, the XP120 supports Wireless LAN connectivity with a smart phone and tablet for easy transfer of photographs or printout using a Fujifilm Instax Share device.

Shutter speed (Auto mode) 1/4 sec. To 1/2000 sec.
(All other modes) 4 sec. to 1/2000 sec.
H:approx. 10 fps max. 10 frames (Size L, M) / max, 20 frames (size S)
Continuous shooting (TOP)
*The frame rate and the recorded number of frames
M:approx. 5.0 fps max. 10 frames (Size L, M) / max, 20 frames (size S)
L:approx. 3.0 fps max. 10 frames (Size L, M) / max, 40 frames (size S)
varies with shooting conditions .
SH:approx. 60 fps max. 70 frames (Size S <16:9> only)
*Use a card with SD Speed Class with "Class10" or higher.
(LAST) H:approx. 10 fps max. 10 frames (Size L, M) / max, 20 frames (size S)
M:approx. 5.0 fps max. 10 frames (Size L, M) / max, 20 frames (size S)
L:approx. 3.0 fps max. 10 frames (Size L, M) / max, 20 frames (size S)
*Use a card with SD Speed Class with "Class10" or higher.
(others) -
Auto bracketing -
Focus (mode) Single AF/Continuous AF
(type) TTL contrast AF, AF assist illuminator available
(AF frame selection) Center/Multi/Tracking
White balance Automatic scene recognition
Fine, Shade, Fluorescent light (Daylight), Fluorescent light (Warm White), Fluorescent light (Cool
White), Incandescent light, Under water,
Self-timer 10 sec./ 2 sec. delay, Group Timer
Interval shooting Yes
Time-lapse movie Yes
Flash Auto flash (i-flash)
Effective range: (ISO AUTO):
Normal
Wide: approx. 70cm - 4.4m /2.3 ft.-14.4 ft.,
Telephoto: approx.1.0m - 3.8 m / 3.2 ft. - 12.4 ft
Macro
Wide: approx. 30cm - 2.0 m/ 1.0 ft. - 6.5 ft.,
Telephoto: approx. 1.0 m - 3.0 m/ 3.2 ft. - 9.8 ft.
Flash modes Red-eye removal OFF: Auto, Forced Flash, Suppressed Flash, Slow Synchro.
Red-eye removal ON: Red-eye Reduction Auto, Red-eye Reduction & Forced Flash, Suppressed
Flash, Red-eye Reduction & Slow Synchro.
Hot shoe -
LCD monitor 3.0-inch, approx. 920K-dot, TFT color LCD monitor, approx. 97% coverage for shooting, 100% for
playing back​
Movie recording Full HD 1920x1080 60p/30p (max 29 min)
HD 1280×720 60p
640×480 30p
with monaural sound, Wind filter .
Zoom function can be used.
*Use a card with SD Speed Class with "Class10" or higher.
Photography functions SR AUTO, Program AE, Cinemagraph, Action camera mode, Pro low-light, HDR, Natural Light& with
Flash, High Speed movie(120/240 fps), Advanced Filter for still image : Toy camera / Miniature/ Pop
color / High-key / Low-key / Dynamic tone / Soft Focus/ Cross Screen/ Fish-eye / Partial color /
Sketch, Advanced filter for movie : Toy camera / Pop color / High-key / Low-key / Fish-eye / Partial
color, Framing guide Frame No. memory, Date stamp, Motion panorama360, Automatic LCD
brightness adjustment
Playback functions Multi-frame playback (with microthumbnail), Protect, Crop, Resize, Slide show, Image rotate,
Photobook assist, Image search, Red eye removal, Copy, Print order(DPOF), Wireless
communication, PC auto save, Favorites, Panorama, Erase selected frames, Movie edit, Create
cinemagraph
Other functions Exif Print, 35 languages selection, Time difference, Silent mode
Dust proof: IP6X
Water proof: IPX8 (up to 20.0m, within 120min.)
Anti-shock: Method;MIL-STD-810F-516.5 Fuji's standard;1.75m
Wireless transmitter ( standard) IEEE 802.11b/g/n (standard wireless protocol)
( access mode ) Infrastructure
Wireless function Geotagging / Wireless communication (Image transfer) / View & Obtain Images / Remote camera
shooting / PC Autosave / instax Printer Print
Terminal { Video output) -
(Digital interface) Micro USB 2.0 High-speed
( HDMI output) HDMI Micro connector (Type D)
(Audio input) -
Power supply Li-ion battery NP-45S (included)
Dimensions 109.6mm (W) ×71.0mm (H) ×27.8mm (D)/ 4.3 in. (W) × 2.7 in. (H) ×1.0 in. (D)
*excluding projections
Weight approx.203g /7.1oz. (including battery and memory card)
approx.186g /6.5oz. (excluding battery and memory card)
Operating Temperature -10 °C - +40 °C   ( +14°F - +104° F)
Operating Humidity 10% - 80% (no condensation)
Battery life for still images*3 approx. 210 frames (AUTO mode)​
Accessories included Li-ion battery NP-45S
AC Power adapter AC-5VF
USB cable
Hand strap
Owner's manual
Optional accessories Li-ion battery NP-45S
instax SHARE printer SP-1 / SP-2
AVAILABILITY:
The Fujifilm FinePix XP120 will be available from February 2017


Fujifilm X-Pro2 + X-T2 Graphite Editions

Fujifilm launches Graphite Silver and Graphite editions of their X-T2 and X-Pro2 cameras.

Following in the steps of the Fujifilm X-T1, the X-T2 Graphite Silver is now available to preorder and is supplied with stylish tailor made accessories. The X-Pro2 is the first X-Pro camera to now come in Graphite. The X-Pro2 include the compact, fast and lightweight interchangeable lens of the same colour, Fujinon XF23mm F2 R WR.Read more